Bike Leg 1

2/10/2002; 52º50' south. Rode 30km in 2.5hrs.

Well, we're off to a rather inauspicious start. As we were leaving Hospedaje Ely in Punta Arenas the proprietress left us with “Well, I'm still not sure why you are not taking the bus, but have fun any ways!” We left the Hospedaje at 1pm, and got out of town by 6. First we had to add air to the tires because we are each carrying about 5,000 pounds (OK, so it wasn't quite that much, but it was around 40kg each). While we were doing that, I asked the gas station attendant where the nearest grocery store was, and he informed us that it was 10 blocks back in the direction we just came from (on a separate fork in the road). OK, so we ride back to the grocery store, where we are informed that we can't buy white gas, but we can get it at a hardware store. Of course, its Sunday, and no hardware stores are open. So this part of the trip is “sin agua caliente”, and anything else caliente for that matter. Then we finally make contact with a friend of Mandy’s friend, a suave gent by the name of Rueben Gomez. So we meet up with him and have a nice chat over coffee and pound cake. Then we're off. Well, not quite yet- the valve on my rear tube is leaking. So back to the gas station, where we replace the tube and fill it up. Then we're off. Like a heard of turtles. Up hill. Into the wind. Are we having fun yet?? Many folks driving along toot their horns at us- I'm not sure if it is encouragement or laughter, but being the optimist I'll take the former. Then again, even the cows are giving us strange looks, so perhaps we really are crazy. At one point there was a car passing us and a truck pulling a car passing the car which was passing us. After grinding out 30km, we decide to call it quits at the police check point, and we roll into the guard house and ask the friendly Carabineros where we can sack out. They point to two trees across the road- the only trees for miles. We go to investigate, and obviously the cows know that these are the only trees for miles, so we hunt around a bit more and find the leeward side of a shed which has only a few patties lying about. And so we lay our heads down to sleep next to the highway behind a run-down shed amidst cow patties and rusted drums. We've got no where to go but up (up wind, that is)!

2/11/2002; 52º25' south. Rode 65km in 6.5hrs.

Well, our first full day of riding is over, and I'm feeling it. Its easy to say that you will get into shape along the way before the trip starts, but now I'm regretting it. We had a couple of sections of strong head and side winds, but I have a feeling that we were lucky today. We even passed by a monument to the wind at 52º30' south. We were adopted by a stray dog at our last camp, and try as we might, we just couldn't shake him for another 30km (that's how fast we were riding). Unfortunately we lost him on a long downhill section in the middle of nowhere, but he was a strong dog, and I'm sure he is living it up at an Estancia as I write. We also met other riders today, so we're not the only crazy ones out here- however, I have noticed that no one else is riding north! First we met Seiji from Japan, just finishing up a 2,000km, 2 month bike & bus tour of Patagonia. He also had a digital camera and laptop. When we pulled in to Villa Tehuelches this evening there were two bikes out front of the cafe, one with a child trailer. I couldn't believe that anyone would be biking down here with their child, but sure enough there was a french couple with their one year old daughter in the cafe. Our camping accommodations for the evening are much nicer than last night; up the hill a bit behind Villa Tehuelches and away from the road.

2/12/2002; 52º02' south. Rode 80km in 7hrs.

It was the best of days and the worst of days. All began well with 40km of wind at our backs, sheep and Ñandu (they look like small ostrich). Several times we were in high gear, clipping along at 40km/hr. Then we turned the corner at Rio Penitente and into the wind. At one point Mandy was standing on her peddles in low gear going down hill. I was one tired puppy when we peddled into Hotel Ruben. The proprietress was nice enough to let us camp in the back, and later (after some advil and a nap) we played a game of soccer with her kids.

2/13/2002; 51º49' south. Rode 25km in 3 hours, Bus 40km in 20 minutes.

Well, we're back in Puerto Natales, and as you might have noticed from the biking km's, a storm blew in this morning. In patagonia, when a storm blows in, it really blows in! Nasty head & side winds all morning, and we finally bailed out when it started raining. Twice Mandy was literally blown in circles, and my arms were sore from trying to keep the bike on the road. Just as it started raining, we pulled into an Estancia, and a few minutes later a bus stopped to deliver a package. We asked the driver how much for a ride to Puerto Natales, and he said 1000 pesos ($1.50) for the two of us and our gear. Never has so little dinero bought so much relief. I have to note, however that the relief was mostly mine- Mandy was having fun biking. Now for a bit of R&R in Puerto Natales, and then we head north to Torres del Paine.

In 1984 Chile and Argentina had a teritorial dispute over ilsands Nueva, Picton and Lennox in Tierra del Fuego which nearly lead to an all out war. Chilean and Argentine forces faced each other as close as 1km at many places along the Ultima Esparanza border in Patagonia. Just as troops were waiting for orders to commence firing, the Pope interviened and negotiated a treaty of peace and freindship. Thus, there are still many dangerous minefields along the Ultima Esparanza border.




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