Bike Leg 9: Los Lagos - Bariloche to Pucon
The northwest arm of lago Nahuel Huapi
Bike Leg 9: Los Lagos - Bariloche to Pucon
The northwest arm of lago Nahuel Huapi
4/12/2002: 40º45' south; Villa La Angostura, Argentina: Rode 82km in 4.5hrs.
I must be getting better at this bike touring thing; I broke two records today: most km in one day- 82, and best overall average- 18.2 km/hr. I got an early start (well, relatively early) at 8:30am, expecting to spend most of the day riding. However there was a light wind at my back for most of the day, and I made it to Villa La Angostura by 1:00pm and rode around town looking for a hostel or hospedaje. After half an hour of fruitless search I gave up and decided to splurge and spend $15/night at the nice hotel on the main street. Then out for lunch, chocolate, and an internet fix.
4/13/2002: 40º45' south; Villa La Angostura, Argentina: Rode 24km single track in 3hrs.
What a fantastic day. I had heard that the Arrayàn forest on peninsula Quetrihuè south of Villa La Angostura was beautiful, and I had planned on hiking out to it. While I was in Bariloche, however, Alejandro informed me that the trail was an excellent one for mountain biking, and so after a casual breakfast I hopped on the bike and found the trail. At first there was a steep stairway which surmounted a cliff, but after that the riding was great fun for 12km out to the forest and back.
Fun single track riding out to the Arrayàn forest.
The Arrayàn trees are endemic to this area of Argentina, and are found nowhere else in the world. Like Aspen trees the new shoots grow up from the roots of older trees, or from recently broken branches. In most places the Arrayàn are dispersed throughout the coihue forest, but at the end of peninsula Quetrihuè south of Villa La Angostura there exists a small area where only Arrayàn grow. This beautiful and unique forest is said to have been the inspiration for the setting of the Walt Disney movie "Bambi".
Bosque Arrayàn
4/14/2002: 40º30' south; Lago Traful, Argentina: Rode 60km in 6hrs.
Well, I'm back to my slovenly 10km/hr riding pace, but forgive me if my riding pace is inversely proportional to my picture taking pace. There are plenty of photo opportunities on the Siete Lagos road between Villa La Angostura and San Martin de los Andes. It is a pleasant dirt road which winds through coihue forest and past beautiful lakes reflecting snow covered mountains.
A snow capped peak reflected in Lago Espejo
It is a peaceful evening as I sit here on the shores of lago Traful; a few fly fishermen try their luck, a woodpecker searches for bugs on a dead branch above me, and a stream tumbles down a distant hillside. A beautiful and tranquil ending to a wonderful day of riding.
4/15/2002: 40º09' south; San Martin de los Andes, Argentina: Rode 60km in 6hrs.
Another great day of riding. I got off to a casual 11:00am start after waiting for the sun to hit my campsite and dry the dew off of my bivy sack. After a steep climb to wake me up, the road wound past lagos Escondido, Villarino, Falkner, Hermoso and Machònico before ending the day with a fun 13km downhill to San Martin de los Andes on the shores of lago Lacar.
Along the way I pulled into a mirador for waterfall Vuliñanco and a young Argentine couple waved me over. "Hi! Where are you from? Would you like some wine? How about an apple? Here, have some bread!" All before I even opened my mouth. Guillermo and his friend were economics students traveling through the region studying crops for export (one of the few bright spots in the Argentine economic crisis), and they decided to take the scenic route up from Bariloche before returning home. After an hour of fun conversation over lunch they left me with apples, a tango cassette, and great memories. The sights of the country are beautiful, but it is the people that I meet along the way which make the trip memorable.
Fall colors frame waterfall Vuliñanco along the Siete Lagos road.
After another 10km of hill climbing I come to a nondescript bridge over a small creek with a pullout and a big fancy sign which was titled "Arroyo Partido". After pondering the sign and looking at the creek I realized what the big deal was. "Arroyo Partido"- creek which splits. Just after passing under the bridge the creek split right along the continental divide, one half going to the Atlantic and the other to the Pacific. Very interesting. This also meant that it was all down hill from here to San Martin de los Andes, and what a downhill it was- 13km of coasting at an average speed of 40km/hr- sweet!
4/16/2002: 40º09' south; San Martin de los Andes, Argentina: Rode nowhere, did almost nothing.
Spent the day around town making plans and running errands. My rear tire finally blew out (it has been worn down for quite some time) 20km from San Martin yesterday and I was able to patch it up with duct tape and finish the ride into town. So this morning I bought a new one. I did a nice short hike this afternoon to a mirador which overlooks lago Lacar and the town.
San Martin de los Andes on the shores of Lago Lacar.
4/17/2002: 40º09' south; San Martin de los Andes, Argentina: Rode 20km in 2.5hrs.
A bit of ego adjustment today. Went out for a ride to lago Escondido (which I didn't find), and along the way there was a steep hill climb for 5km. I was feeling pretty good, although I did have to shift down into the small chain ring about half way up the hill. About that time a local mapuche indian blows by me in jeans and a flanel shirt on his old beater bike carrying a chain saw on the back. Just a gentle reminder that my skill and status in the biking world hovers just above that of an earth worm. The trail to lago Escondido wasn't marked, and by the time I realized that I had missed it I had already descended 300m down the other side of the hill so I headed down to Quila Quina and lounged on the beach with a drink in hand before heading back to San Martin on the ferry.
The beach at Quila Quina was packed.
4/18/2002: 39º52' south; Puerto Fuy, Chile: Rode 15km in 1.5hrs; 60km on boats.
Well, I'm back in Chile again, and the contrast with Argentina is stunning. From the touristy resort town of San Martin de los Andes in Argentina to the little working class hamlet of Puerto Fuy in Chile. Kind of like crossing the mountains from Aspen and ending up in West Virginia. The morning boat ride across lago Lacar in Argentina was a tourist excursion with cushy seats, a tour guide, and a fancy restaurant for lunch. The afternoon boat ride in Chile was on a ferry with a forest ranger, a truck hauling wood and an ambulance (not in use at the time). In Argentina: cappuccino; Chile: nescafe. Butter was replaced by margarine. Time also seemed to slow down a bit when I crossed the border, and I had a general feeling that life was more simple and tranquil. That is not to say that this border crossing is representative of the differences between the two countries, but in this particular location there is a stark contrast.
I was hoping that the ferry Pirihueico II would be in better shape than it's predecessor.
4/19/2002: 39º38' south; Termas Coñaripe, Chile: Rode 45km in 4hrs.
I started out the day in drizzling rain for the first time in a while, and as I peddled along the muddy road to Coñaripe there were spells of heavy rain and a few brief moments of sunshine. After a while I came to a fancy sign for the Saltos Huilo Huilo, which were 1km down a side road. Digging back through the cobwebs, I remembered that Scott in Santiago had recommended a visit to the falls, so I took a short detour. It was indeed worth it, with the Rio Fuy carving a winding, narrow channel through a lava flow and then plunging 30m into a pool below.
Saltos Huilo Huilo
I also looked down stream to admire the clear waters and class IV rapids of the Rio Fuy, which is famous for spectacular kayaking. I will definitely be returning with boat in hand.
Rio Fuy
After leaving the waterfall I rode downhill for 6km, then turned off on a side road and climbed for 8km before descending to another intersection. A police man was dutifully manning the wayward post, and I stopped to ask him how the road was to Coñaripe, and if there were any more hills. "Yup, two hills- the first one isn't bad, but the second is a killer. Switchbacks and the works." After which he made pushing motions with his hands. "Gee, thanks" I said, noticing that he didn't quite catch the sarcasm. Like he said, the first hill wasn't steep, but it was long, and afterwards I descended to lago Pellaifa. In my search through the cobwebs this morning I also remembered that there was a hot springs near Coñaripe, and I decided that if I reached the hot springs before town I would stay there. As I approached lago Pellaifa I saw a big fancy gate with a big fancy sign which said "Termas Coñaripe". "Gee, this must be it." I thought- not much gets by this sharp mind of mine. Besides, Coñaripe was just on the other side of the lake, and surely the road followed the lake shore. The temptation was too great, and at 2:00pm I pulled in to the resort, got a room, and jumped in to the nearest hot springs pool.
4/20/2002: 39º16' south; Pucon, Chile: Rode 79km in 6hrs.
Once again I started the day with a nasty hill climb. It turns out that the policeman the day before was correct. Ripio, mud and switchbacks- what a combination. But my legs were well rested from the hot springs, and I climbed the hill with a slow but consistent pace stopping only once. On the way up Chucaos cheered me on from the bushes, and the few passing drivers honked their encouragement. After only 35 minutes I reached the top, 350m above my starting point. My ego swelled once again.
Volcan Villarica dominates the countryside between Lican Ray and Pucon.
As I descended the hill to Coñaripe the familiar shape of Volcan Villarica rose above the hills in the foreground. Now all I had to do was get to the other side to reach my home away from home, Pucon. However, when bicycle touring it helps not to get ahead of oneself. My motto is "poco a poco"- bit by bit I'll get there. First Coñaripe, then Lican Ray, Villarica, and finally Pucon.
"Drunk fish jumping through hoops for cherries- 3km"
After Coñaripe the road was paved, and I spent the rest of the day riding through rolling countryside and around lagos Panguipulli and Villarica. At 3:00pm I stopped for a late lunch on the now deserted shores of lago Villarica. What a contrast from January, when the black sand beaches were packed with boisterous chilenos from Santiago. I enjoyed the tranquility, watching two grebes swim in the lake and listening to the waves gently lapping the shore. Then I rode on to Pucon, where I arrived at La Tetera at 4:00pm to find Mandy out in front talking with Veronica. We catch up for a bit and then Mandy heads out for dinner with Jaime, Mylene and their family, whom we stayed with in January.
The shores of lago Villarica
Trip statistics for this leg of the ride: Rode 385km, passing 14 lakes, 3 waterfalls, and 3 zillion species of trees.
