Prologue: January 1987
Step. Breath. Step. Breath. One of the suggested gauges of fitness for participation in this trip was to be able to run a six minute mile. Ok, fine. I trained hard- aerobics, swimming and running- even made the six minute mile mark- in Ft. Collins, that is. Nobody is running a six minute mile up here at 16,000 feet on Popo (aka Popocatapetl). But I doggedly continue up the mountain, with new appreciation for the high altitude climbing technique known as the "Rest Step". It was the first time I had been higher than the 14,000ft peaks of Colorado, and I was begining to understand why visiting relatives from sea level always huffed and puffed while walking up the hill near my home at 7,000ft. Not only is there a dirth of oxygen up on Popo, but also the plesant odor of sulfer as one trudges around the crater rim. Eventually, however, I reached the 17,800ft summit, along with my other classmates from CSU, and we celebrated our first high altitude victory together with cheers and pictures. A few days later we summited Ixta (aka Iztacihuatl). Our plan was to rest for a bit in Puebla and then climb Pico de Orizaba, at 18,800ft the highest of the Mexican volcanos. But while we were in Puebla we heard a rumor that the climbing conditions on Orizaba were poor, and that there had been a serious accident that day. The next day we arrived in Tlachichuca, the town below Orizaba, to find that there had indeed been a terrible accident, and a major rescue operation was underway. The leaders of our trip decided that the only reason to go up to the mountain would be to assist in the rescue, but there were many rescuers already up on the mountain. So on that sad note we ended our trip we ended our trip and returned home. For a long time I would wonder if I could have climbed that high...
March, 1999
The funny thing about climbing high altitude peaks is that the glory of reaching the summit grows with time, while the memory of the pain and effort required to get there fades. And so, in 1996, I returned to the land of rarified air with my friend Pam Sbar, climbing the volcano Cotopaxi in Ecuador as clients with AAI (American Alpine Institute). Reaching the 19,300ft summit of Cotopaxi assured me that I could climb Pico de Orizaba. So when my friend Rick Chapman decided that high altitude peaks were in his future I suggested that we return to Mexico for a trial run on Ixta and Pico de Orizaba prior to entertaining his other visions of grandure. Pam and I were also anxious to climb a peak without the aid of a guide, and the Mexican volcanoes were gentle climbs, and in good condition that year (other than Popo, which was erupting).
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Transportation-
The bus company Estrella Roja runs an express bus from the airport to Puebla
which is definitely the way to go- nice busses, no hassles with Mexico City.
The busses leave every half hour from about 4 in the morning to 10 at night.
There are two stops in Puebla: CAPU (the main bus terminal), and a separate
station on street 4 Poniente. The station at 4 Poniente is closer to the
Zocalo (main square) in Puebla, which is a nice area to stay. It may be
that there are separate busses going to 4 Poniente and CAPU, or it may be
that all busses stop at both locations; check when you buy the ticket. In
either event a cabbie will be glad to get you where you are going once you
arrive in Puebla. Phone #s for Estrella Roja in Puebla are 49-70-99 (CAPU)
and 49-60-90 (4 Poniente).
The main bus station in Puebla, CAPU, is HUGE! When we went there to catch
a bus to Tlachichuca the bus left from the furthest possible port from the
main terminal. We had to run for 15 minutes with our giant bags, and then
we got to the bus just in time. Keep that in mind when you are buying your
ticket in the main terminal. I don't remember the name of the company, but
it wasn't too hard to find by asking around in the main terminal for
Tlachichuca. There were busses leaving every hour or two throughout the
day.
Places to stay in Tlachichuca-
Sr. Reyes place is now run by the son of the infamous Sr. Reyes, Dr. Gerardo
Reyes Carlin. Here is Gerardo's contact information in Mexico city- I don't
know if he has an e-mail address yet, but you might try faxing him with your
information if you plan on staying at the Reyes place in Tlachichuca- it can
get booked up with guided groups from the US during high climbing season.
When you arrive in Tlachichuca, the Reyes store is about 4-5 blocks from the
main square- it has a funky cupola (hexagonal bay with windows) above the
street corner (there is a video out about climbing the Mexico volcanoes
which has a good shot of this).
Dr. Gerardo Reyes Carlin, Director
Santiago No. 344 Col. San Jeronimo Lidice
C.P. 10200 Mexico, D.F.
Fax (5) 595-8285; (245) 15019
<I think that second # is phone in Tlachichuca, the 1st is Fax in Mexico
city>
Note that there is a bit of local controversy surrounding the Reyes
operation. Apparently it is a very "in the family" business, and not much
of the money is spread throughout the community (according to other locals).
It is also a bit over priced, but the service is good and reliable, and
includes meals while in Tlachichuca (the best food I had when we were in
Mexico). The competition is much less expensive (possibly half as much).
When we stayed at the Reyes, we paid $100 each for 2 nights in the bunk
house, 4 meals, and transportation to & from Piedra Grande. We tried
negotiating a bit, but Gerardo was firm in his price. He is putting alot of
the money back into the accommodations, and probably has his climbing wall
and new kitchen done by now.
The competition is Claudio S. Gerardo & Espinosa P. Lourdes, who run Hotel
Gerar in Tlachichuca and provide transportation to Piedra Grande (the hut on
Pico). They also sell T-shirts. Claudio hopped on the bus as it was coming
into town, and talked with us about his services. At the time we felt more
comfortable going with the Reyes, because we knew of them. Looking back at
it, I'm sure Claudio provides good service as well, and a little competition
would be good for the town of Tlachichuca. The info:
Hotel Gerar
Av. 20 De Noviembre No. 200
Tlachichuca, PUE.
Tel/Fax 01-245-15075
Climbing-
Your general aclimatization scheme sounded pretty good. If I were climbing
La Malinche and then Pico, I might follow this schedule (assuming you have
10 days):
1) Fly in & take bus to Puebla
2) Climb La Malinche
3) bus to Tlachichuca
4) transport to Piedra Grande
5) day hike up to high camp above La Lengua ("The Toung"- a lower section of
the glacier). High camp is generally on the main glacier just above the
rock band above La Lengua (to the left of the Sarcofago) at around 4900m.
Return to Piedra Grande to sleep.
6) backpack up to high camp
7) summit day, returning to Tlachichuca in the evening
8) alternate summit day
9) bus to Puebla
10) bus to airport and fly out.
Our actual schedule when we did it was 10 days, during which we climbed
Iztacihuatle and Pico de Orizaba:
1) Fly in & stay @ Mexico city
2) Bus to Amecameca, and taxi up to Antenna towers, where rudimentary dorms
served as our base @ 13k feet.
3) Aclimatization hike to hut at 15.5k, sleep @ Antenna towers.
4) backpacked up to hut at 15.5k
5) Izta summit day, returning all of the way down to Cholula, near Puebla.
6) Travel from Cholula to Puebla to Tlachichuca, night @ Sr. Reyes
7) transport up to Piedra Grande
8) Summit day- long day from Piedra Grande to summit, but we were well
aclimatized from Izta. Returned to Tlachichuca that evening
9) bus to Puebla & toured around Puebla
10) bus to airport & fly out.